Choose the hide
Calf from the Santa Croce tanneries, chosen by hand. One hide in five is good enough for a flap.
One house in Fermo, eleven people, one satchel each a day. This is where the grey hides come in and the coloured ones go out.
The Trevalle workshop fills the first floor of a 1790 house on Via Perpenti. The six windows on the façade are the six colours of the season; the dye baths sit behind the middle one.
Every pattern hangs on the wall where it was drawn. When a piece changes, we draw a new card and keep the old one; there are four hundred and twelve of them now.
Most houses buy leather already coloured. We buy it grey, cut and stitch it, and only then dye the finished satchel, so the colour runs into every seam and edge.
hand operations in every satchel
hours from first cut to last buckle
maker, whose initials are inside the flap
Lilac satchels this season, and no more